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| History Surfing was first recorded in Hawaii by Lieutenant James King, whose task it was to complete the journals of James Cook after his death in 1779. However, by this time surfing had already become an integral part of Hawaiian culture with surfers riding waves lying down or standing on long hardwood boards. Surfing was as much as a part of Hawaiian life as many major sports are part of western life today. It permeated every part of Hawaiian society including religion and myth. Hawaiian Chiefs would demonstrate their leadership by the skills they possessed on the surf. Person Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku (August 24, 1890 – January 22, 1968), "The Big Kahuna", is generally regarded as the inventor of the modern sport of surfing. He was also an Olympic champion in swimming. Film Pointbreak (1991): directed by Kathryn Bigelow and starring Patrick Swayze and Keanu Reeves. Tagline: 27 banks in three years - anything to catch the perfect wave! Plot outline: In the coastal town of Los Angeles, a gang of bank robbers call themselves the ex-presidents. commit their crimes while wearing masks of ex-presidents Reagan, Carter, Nixon and Johnson. The F.B.I. believes that the members of the gang could be surfers and send young agent Johnny Utah undercover at the beach to mix with the surfers and gather information. Utah meets surfer Bodhi and gets drawn into the lifestyle of his new friend. Numbers The following surfers have won the Billabong XXL Biggest Wave Award: Pete Cabrinha (Hawaii): 70 feet (21.33 metres) on 10 January 2004 at Jaws on the North Shore of Maui, Hawaii. Dan Moore (Hawaii): 68 feet (20.73 metres) on 15 December 2004 at Jaws. Brad Gerlach (California): 68 feet (20.73 metres) on 21 December 2005 at Todos Santos Island near Ensenada, Mexico. Makua Rothman (Hawaii): 66 feet (20.12 metres) on 26 November 2002 at Jaws. Greg Long (Califórnia): 65 feet (19.81 metres) on 30 July 2006 at Dungeons, South Africa. Thing A rip current is a strong flow of water returning seaward from the shore. It is often mistakenly called a "rip tide" or "riptide", though the occurrence is not related to the tides. Colloquially a rip current is known simply as a rip, or the misnomer undertow. Although rip currents would exist even without the tides, tides can make an existing rip much more dangerous (especially low tide). Typical flow is at 0.5 meters per second (1-2 feet per second), and can be as fast as 2.5 meters per second (8 feet per second). Rip currents can move to different locations on a beach break, up to a few hundred feet a day. They can occur at any beach with breaking waves, including the world's oceans, seas, and large lakes such as the Great Lakes in Canada and the United States. Such currents can all be extremely dangerous, dragging swimmers away from the beach and leading to death by drowning when they attempt to fight the current and become exhausted. Rip currents can also be extremely useful for surfers as they save the effort of having to paddle out to catch a set. They can also be used by lifeguards (swimming or on paddleboards), who can use them to get out from the shore to perform a rescue much quicker than they could by swimming/paddling through the waves. Song Surfin' USA by the Beach Boy Fictional character The Silver Surfer is a fictional Marvel Comics superhero. Created by writer Stan Lee and artist/co-plotter Jack Kirby, he first appeared in the comic book Fantastic Four #48 (March 1966). The Surfer was originally Norrin Radd, a young astronomer of the planet Zenn-La. He agreed to serve as herald to the god-like entity, Galactus, in order to save Zenn-La from the world devourer's insatiable hunger. Granted enormous powers (he wields the Power Cosmic), a silvery appearance and a surfboard-like vehicle — all of which were modeled after a childhood fantasy of Radd — the Silver Surfer roamed the cosmos, searching for new planets for Galactus to consume. Wordplay The following are all extreme sports-related puns (an amusing use of a word or phrase which has several meanings or which sounds like another word): Small surfers ride micro waves. Surfing is a swell sport! Beach owners would like surfers to sign waivers containing riders. Quotes Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear. (Buzzy Trent) I've spent most of my entire life surfing, the rest I've wasted. (Anonymous) Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it. (Paul Strauch) Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life. (Matt Warshaw) Surfing is for life. (Bruce Jenkins) Place Jaws is the name given a beach near the town of Peahi on the island of Maui in the US state of Hawaii. It is located on the northern side of the island between mile markers 13 and 14 on the Hana highway. It sits at the base of rolling sugar cane field hills. The beach is called "Jaws" due to the size and ferocity of the waves. The waves at Jaws can reach heights in excess of fifty feet on the face of the wave, moving as fast as twenty-five miles per hour. In order for the surf at Jaws to reach these extreme levels, many specific ocean and weather conditions must occur simutaneously. Because ocean swells large enough to produce this kind of surf occur only during winter months, primarily between December and February, they typically coincide with very strong winds which have a large effect on the surf. Other swells, particularly the small but powerful trade wind swells, can make the surf choppy and difficult to ride. There are several other surf spots around the world that boast similar wave heights, however Jaws is famous for its quality. The reef and rocks at Jaws are shaped in a way that magnify incoming swell energy and produce clean and well defined right and left waves with gigantic barreling sections. Records Kelly Slater (b. Robert Kelly Slater February 11, 1972, Cocoa Beach, Florida) has won the world surfing championship eight times, more than any other person. In May 2005 in the final of the Billabong Tahiti Pro contest at Teahupoo, he also became the first to score two perfect rides for a total 20 out of 20. Proverbs A good surfer will not get wet. (Hawaiian) Waves will rise on silent water. (Scottish) If there is a wave there must be a wind. (Chinese) |
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