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SURFER QUOTES
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The Top 25 Quotes About Surfing.
25. Go strip off your clothes that are a nuisance in this mellow clime. Get in and wrestle with the sea; wing your heels with the skill and power that reside in you, hit the sea’s breakers, master them, and ride upon their backs as a king should. Jack London gets virile in Hawaii while Sennen Cove's James Parry takes a more laid back line, as captured by Russ Pierre.
24. Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear. Buzzy Trent.
23. I’ve tried body surfing. It’s nice. Profundity from Ziggy Marley.
22. Surf now, apocalypse later. Beachside graffiti in California.
21. Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets. Eight-time World Champion Kelly Slater avoids sounding deep or weird.
20. When the day came to an end, he walked away from the beach. One thing Mickey taught me as an ethos was that at the end of the day, you just walk away. Apocalypse Now script-writer and Big Wednesday, Conan the Barbarian and Red Dawn film director John Milius on ‘da cat that walked by himself,’ Malibu legend Mickey Dora.
19. The best surfer in the world is the one having the most fun. Attributed to just about everyone at some time or another.
18. I love surfing more than cricket. It’s more interesting and you meet great people. The late South African cricketer Hansie Cronje.
17. The legions of the unjazzed - Pipeline pioneer Phil Edwards on non-surfers.
16. KILGORE: I’m talking about going surfing, son. Hunting up Cong, and going surfin’. I’m talking about a left slide six to eight feet…
TOM: I don’t know, sir. It’s – it’s –
KILGORE: (hard) What is it?
TOM: Well, I mean it’s hairy in there. It’s Charlie’s Point.
Kilgore turns and looks to Willard, exasperated.
WILLARD: Charlie don’t surf.
KILGORE: We’ll move in another company and then we’ll own it. (he laughs to himself) Charlie’s Point.How to deal with the locals, from the original Milius script for Apocalypse Now.
15. I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea; especially as, though the tents and ships were so near, he did not seem to take any notice of the crowds of his countrymen collected to view them as objects which were rare and curious. From Captain Cook’s A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, published 1784, when Cook encounters canoe surfing in Tahiti.
14. The boldness and address with which we saw them perform these difficult and dangerous manoeuvres, was altogether astonishing, and scarcely to be credited. Cook again – or rather, from the notes of Lt James King, Cook having by then been eaten in Hawaii.
13. So what was it like to surf Alaska?... It’s the last place where America, its true atavistic spirit, exists. It’s the America of John Ford, where accountability and self-reliance still mean something. It’s not the litigation-snarled America we have today, full of blame-shirkers and moral cowards. If you break down, you don’t call Auto Club. If a bear looms up on the trail ahead, you don’t slap an injunction on him or sue the state because you weren’t notified by warning signs every 10 yards. And if you get into trouble surfing, you don’t flag down the rescue helicopter to save your lily-white helpless ass. From Dave Parmenter’s account of surfing in Alaska entitled The Land Duke Forgot, first published in Surfer in 1993.
12. The biggest trend in surfing today is a worldwide shift to the longboard… demographically, longboarding is modern surfing. Or, more exactly, post-modern surfing. Parmenter, in The Surfer’s Journal, says we’re all longboarders now.
11. Longboarding sucks. Unknown 15-year-old ripper at a beach in the far west of Cornwall. Maybe there’s hope for shortboarding yet…
10. He looked like he’d been served with an injunction. Welsh surfer and author Tom Anderson reveals Salman Rushdie’s reaction when given a copy of Anderson’s Riding the Magic Carpet.
9. I notice a lot of you surfers have moustaches. Do they keep you warm? HRH Prince Charles to the legendary PJ and other hirsute surfers, at a Buckingham Palace reception.
8. Surfing gives you a feeling of what it’s like to live as a seal, of being a water animal. What else gives you this? Sailing doesn’t. People in boats spend all their time trying not fall into the water. For a surfer, the fluidity of the ocean – of being in it – is what matters. Alan ‘Fuz’ Bleakley, poet, academic and lifelong surfer.
7. Lawyers don’t surf. Lori Petty, Keanu Reeves' love interest in Hollywood surf 'n' steal caper Point Break.
6. It’s really hardcore. The stoke is really visible. They’re a handful of guys who surf through the winter, come rain or shine. I’ve surfed in Cornwall, Wales, Ireland and the Hebrides, and they’re probably the most stoked surfers I’ve come across. The iconic Tom Curren on British and Irish surfing (full interview coming soon in Huck).
5. This wave wasn’t going to break, it was going to occur. And there wasn’t a damn thing any one of us could do about it. Matt George in Three Portraits of Sumatra, published in Surfing’s Greatest Misadventures, on Jay Quinn’s nailing by the largest wave ever seen at Lance’s Rights. The caption to the photograph of Quinn is as memorable as the image of his glazed, stunned features: The largest wave ever seen at Lance’s Rights, in Sumatra, broke on Jay Quinn’s heels. Onboard the boat, the Neptune, an hour after the wave, Jay had not yet said a word. He didn’t take his eyes off the line-up until the sun went down.
4. C’est un voyage pour cherchez les vagues. Susan Chaplin explains to a local Mauritian why, as a woman in her Fifties, she is roaming the world. See her exquisite account, The Idiot Savant, also in Surfing’s Greatest Misadventures.
3. I hate writing. And I’m a better surfer than you. My 12-year-old son Harry, when tasked with writing this blog by way of earning a new board. He is still waiting for the board. (Photo courtesy of Mick Stallworthy at Surf Art UK).
2. Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven. Irish big wave charger John McCarthy.
1. The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean. Laird Hamilton.
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